Since this nice spell of weather has befriended London I have spent far too much time there, so this weekend I decided to up sticks and head for Cornwall.
This is how things looked when we arrived on Friday afternoon.
2-4ft sets. Two mates. No wind. Secret sandbank somewhere near the North Coast Cornwall/Devon boarder. Proper job.
To give you some idea of the walk down to the beach, those dots to the left are people...
...It's twenty minutes from here.
This is what I am riding. It's a Fatboy Flyer from Beach Beat. 7'2 with loads of foam in the body to keep my flailing lazy ass afloat. Pointy nose easy for duck diving and swallow tailed so I can actually turn the log. I have had it 5 years now.


Hardly any of his boards are conventional. He likes to experiment with shapes and channels and concaves and volumes and fin placements. He is from the Bahamas via Brazil and Newcastle.
This is where we rested our surf aching limbs each night. She is called Wendy.All the while Jonathan Richman was playing on the CD.

1 comment:
brilliant
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